Once we were convinced we could send this part, we were ready to give the entire route a try. The plan was to free climb all the pitches with a swinging lead (swapping who leads and who belays) at every belay. We packed enough supplies for five days, thinking this would be enough for our planned ascent.
When that day came we started before sunrise, climbing the first hard pitches without falls. The climbing felt much easier in the morning shade, but the hauling was exhausting. I had never hauled such a heavy bag before and couldn’t really perfect the technique. That really slowed things down and we realized immediately that we were a little ambitious with our plans to finish the route in five days. We really hoped to have enough food.
After four days on the wall and lots of tough climbing and constant struggling with the heavy bags, we reached the second to last hard pitch, a big roof called The Black Cave. It was supposed to rain that night, so we decided to set up our portaledge there.
We woke up the next morning surrounded by clouds and the sound of pouring rain. The right side of the wall quickly became a waterfall, and we started to worry about the situation. We didn’t want to rappel down after all of our effort during the previous day so we spent the day chilling and eating the remaining food in our portaledge. Luckily when we woke up the next morning, the sun was bearing down once again: yes!
The rock dried pretty quickly and we wasted no time working through the roof above us. The wall above was steeper but the bags were lighter, which made the hauling process easier and faster. We decided to set up camp on a big natural ledge, just a few pitches before the last hard section. We were now really running out of food so our plan was to top out on the following day.